Industry News
Michelle Obama’s Jewelry Box
THE ST. ERASMUS NECKLACE
Pieter Erasmus had no idea that his design would end up on the neck of the First Lady. “When I saw her wearing it, I had to sit down,” he says. “It was a tremendous shock, but in a good way.” The jeweler, who calls Mrs. Obama “a very stylish girl,” was originally inspired to make the crocheted fresh-water pearl and Swarovski crystal necklace after reading about the gems owned by a 19th-century Indian ruler, but he may have found a new muse. “Mrs Obama has a fantastic sense of personal style,” he says, “Feminine and powerful. She is the kind of woman that is in my mind when I design jewelry.”
THE LOREE RODKIN EARRINGS
For the Nobel Piece Prize gala in Oslo, Mrs. Obama chose white gold and diamond drop earrings from Loree Rodkin. The designer, who also crafted the First Lady’s Inaugural ball gems, cites “celestial inspiration” for the design, saying that the meaning behind them is to “reach for the moon, the stars and the galaxies.”
THE CAROLE TANENBAUM BROOCHES
Canadian vintage jewelry collector Carole Tanenbaum is “always proud to see the First Lady wear one of my loved ‘jewels’!” Mrs. Obama, whose brooches are purchased through the Chicago boutique Ikram, owns a ’60s-era Hattie Carnegie pin made of silk threads (left) and a jade-green papier-mache flower that dates from the ’70s (right). “I love the color and scale in these pieces,” says Tanenbaum. “Mrs. Obama’s put the fun back in accessories with her daring large-scale brooches and the way in which she positions them.”
THE BOCHIC EARRINGS
Talk about statement jewelry! For the recent State Dinner honoring Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh and his wife Gursharan Kaur, Mrs. Obama chose a shoulder-dusting set by Bochic designers David Joseph and Miriam Salat. “When we designed the earrings we wanted to integrate both Eastern and Western design elements,” Joseph said in a statement. “We were drawn to the orange hue of the natural amber and the rose color of the rubellite tourmaline, which are traditional Indian colors. We also added rose cut diamonds to create a vintage feel.” And, naturally, “The First Lady was an absolute vision.”
THE TOM BINNS NECKLACE
“You are not dealing with reason, you are dealing with attitude,” designer Tom Binns has said of his work. The Irish-born jeweler has a magpie’s eye for combining multi-colored crystals into surreally beautiful creations like Mrs. O’s necklace from his Mutiny of Splendor series. The First Lady, who purchases Binns’s pieces from Chicago’s Ikram boutique, wore the eye-catching piece to the recent Kennedy Center Honors event.
THE GARAVELLI DIAMOND BROOCH
Mrs. Obama’s latest pin has lofty provenance indeed-that is, the President of the United States. During Oprah’s Christmas at the White House special President Obama pointed out that the First Lady’s Garavelli brooch was a recent anniversary surprise. “You get some nice stuff,” he said to his wife, joking, “Here’s the general rule-I give nicer stuff than I get!” He certainly can’t claim that she hasn’t appreciated the gift-not only has she used it to accent a draped Lanvin design, she has also dressed up a double-strand of pearls with the custom piece.
Industry News
Rules to Choose a Jewelry that Suits to Wear Everyday
That’s right! In addition to love to buy various beautiful outfits, many women also take a fancy to collect jewelry which seems to be addictive easily. But the problem is those luxury and expensive jewelry aren’t so convenient to wear in daily life. So, if you are new comer to buy jewelry, you’d better choose the jewelry like classic and simple pendant necklaces that suit to wear everyday. Even you get older and older, you can still use it to embellish your dull look. What you need to understand is how to make a perfect choice, maybe complying with the following rules can do you a great favor on the road of selecting forever jewelry.
Rule 1. The more simple style is the better. If you are the one who has learned some knowledge about design, the principle is quite familiar to you. Yes, largely an extremely simple creation can be increasingly loved by people.
Rule 2. The classic style is perfect. It goes without saying that classic thing is going to exist forever because it won’t be out of fashion and go with any outfit perfectly. Although the most fashionable jewelry is pretty popular, it is easy to be outdated as time passes.
Rule 3. The right price is the best. As the beginning said, expensive jewelry aren’t suitable for daily wearing but as collections. That is to say, if you want to wear it everyday, the one in moderate cost is perfect for you better.
Industry News
How to Wear Jewelry for Almost Any Occasion
Even if diamonds are a girl’s best friend, the sparkly stones don’t have to be your only accessory option. More affordable pieces abound in the form of pearls, gemstone pendants, crystal solitaire rings, tennis bracelets, and beyond—and they’re versatile enough to work with almost any outfit. But knowing how to wear jewelry isn’t always intuitive. Learn more about the different types of baubles at your disposal and how you can combine them to match any occasion.
Types of Jewelry
Fashion Jewelry
Also known as costume jewelry, fashion jewelry makes a bold statement, and it’s generally the most affordable option. There’s no easier way to add personality to an outfit than with a whimsical trinket or a piece of novelty jewelry.
Fine Metal Jewelry
Fine metal pieces are ideal for tying together an outfit when you want to look sharp. The key words here are “subtle” and “sophisticated.” These are the hallmarks of jewelry staples that go from day to night to weekend, and you’ll be able to wear them for years.
Gemstone and Pearl Jewelry
When you need to add a pop of color to an outfit, or when you feel like you’re missing that certain je ne sais quoi, seek out gemstones and pearls. Like diamonds, these pieces dazzle, but they’re primarily accent pieces that can be mixed and matched with other jewelry.
Casual Occasions
Brunch | Weekends | Outdoor Activities
Some jewelry you’ll wear only once or twice a year; some you’ll find yourself wearing almost every day. To up your style game on those days when you have to dash out the door, keep a number of easy-to-wear, not-too-flashy pieces on hand.
Work
The Office | Lunch Dates | Job Interviews
When you need to look polished, choose subtle, complementary pieces that don’t distract you or others. You don’t want to sit through an office meeting fidgeting with a jangly bracelet; likewise, showy pieces aren’t generally considered appropriate for buttoned-up settings.
Parties
Cocktail Parties | Dinner Parties
This is when you can dig out that fashion jewelry. Chunky statement pieces add pizzazz to cocktail dresses and LBDs that would look too sparse without some flashy objects to jazz them up. However, be sure to stick to just one or two pieces at a time to avoid looking over-the-top, unless that’s what you’re going for.
Formal Event
Weddings | Galas
A few timeless pieces—the classics—are essential for those occasions where you need to look your best. Channel Hollywood glamour icons like Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly, who knew how to add the perfect finishing touches to formal looks and wear them with confidence.
Industry News
The Summer Jewelry You Won’t Have To Take Off Until September
Summer is all about easy, breezy style — effortless sundresses, go-with-everything sandals and glowing skin.
The last thing you want to do is fuss with your jewelry. The simplest pieces to wear are the ones you don’t have to put on and take off all the time — which means they need to work in and out of the water. A semi-permanent jewelry wardrobe is a stress-free way to stay super fly over the next few months. But there are just a few tips to keep in mind when selecting your baubles for the summer.
Necklaces
- Summer is the perfect time to rock a neck full of cute and kitschy necklaces.
- A short chain length will make sure your necklace doesn’t slip off while you splish and splash.
Bracelets
- Rope or string bracelets are perfect for the land and sea.
- Plus, choosing ones with less metal means you don’t have to worry about them completely tarnishing.
Earrings
- Don’t risk losing your diamond studs in the abyss. Switch them out for a pair that isn’t so precious.
- Find a pair of studs with a fine metal post to ensure they won’t irritate your ears.
Rings
- Decorate your digits with eye-catching shapes.
- Try mid-finger rings and unexpected metal hues, like gunmetal and rose gold.
Industry News
The Prettiest Summer Rings—And the Best Nail Polishes to Wear With Them
As trends go, just as a particular style takes over, the total opposite is often called to action. Take, for instance, the of-the-moment nude pedicure: Not only is it a refreshingly chic alternative to the “business on the tips, party on the toes” notion, but it’s also the reason why color is taking hands by storm this summer. But instead of simply swapping out a ballet slippers shade of pink for an eye-catching take on crimson, make like the pros, and Rihanna, and match your fingertips to your jewels. After all, what good is a great, double tap–worthy bauble without a shiny, coordinated manicure to show it off?
Industry News
14 Ways to Incorporate More Fashion Jewelry Into Your Look
I’ll admit it: I’m a jewelry addict.
Every day, I can be seen wearing multiple pieces of costume jewelry. The vast majority of the fashion compliments I receive have to do with them, and one of my friends has even identified my jewelry collection as what anchors my style.
Many girls shy away from wearing lots of jewelry, and even more stick to the basics and don’t mix up their look with fun fashion jewelry (meaning bold costume pieces as opposed to delicate, high-end jewelry). Of course, everyone has their own style, and I know my maximalist tendencies aren’t for everyone.
Still, I think that if you want to up your style and have fun with fashion, try dipping your toes into the waters of bolder accessorizing. Here are 15 ways to start upping your jewelry game:
1. Play with a basic outfit.
Dig through your dresser and find those accessories you never wear, or drop by your favorite discount store and pick up a few cheap pieces of jewelry that stand out to you. Then, experiment! Throw on a simple outfit (try a tee and a printed maxi), then add a jeweled bracelet, a long necklace, or both.
Look in the mirror, and my bet is you’ll see a favorite look taken to a new level. This is exactly how my style evolution started and I’ve never looked back.
2. Change your earrings.
The vast majority of my girlfriends wear the same earrings every single day. It’s very tempting when you find that elusive, quality, go-with-everything pair, but if stud earrings are where your accessorizing begins and ends, the natural baby step into jewelry-master territory is to have fun by switching them out every once in a while.
3. Don’t think embracing bold jewelry means abandoning your personal pieces.
Almost everyone has an accessory they wear every day, and usually it’s something with special meaning. For me, it’s my aunt’s watch, a friendship bracelet, and a single stud earring I got in Spain. These pieces make our looks special and unique, but can sometimes make us feel limited with the other jewelry we wear.
This doesn’t have to be the case. Layered jewelry is an awesome and trendy look! If you have an everyday short necklace, layer it with others of different lengths. If your special piece is a bracelet or ring, mix it up with others and create an eclectic stack, or just wear other pieces on a different hand.
Chances are, your special piece is simple or delicate, so don’t worry about how it matches with whatever else you’re wearing. Trust me, mismatched jewelry looks effortlessly cool.
4. Add a pop of color.
I have seen many women with relatively classic styles have a go-to statement piece, most often a necklace, to liven up their look. If you like to go light on accessories, scour your favorite stores until you find one statement necklace that is exactly your style. Then, wear it with everything!
Wear it with prints with similar colors, and add to pop against monochromatic looks. I’m not just talking neutrals: a jewel-tone necklace looks just as good against a palette of pastels as it does with basic black.
5. Throw a party (a ring, arm, or ear party that is).
You may have seen the terms “ring party” or “arm party” in your favorite fashion mags to describe an eclectic stack of jewelry. Covering your hands or arms with one type of jewelry in a mix of colors and textures makes any look way more eye-catching and shows off your fashion flair.
You can even throw a party on your ear (by mixing up earrings if you have multiple piercings and/or rocking some ear cuffs) or around your neck (by layering necklaces). Your party can have as many or as few guests as you like, but keep it coordinated by inviting pieces that, while contrasting, relate to each other in some way, like similar colors or vibe.
6. Make prints pop with jewelry in coordinating colors.
When wearing a bold print, especially head-to-toe, it can be tempting to just throw on neutral shoes and call it an outfit. However, I’ve found that in the best outfits starring prints, bright accessories play a crucial supporting role.
If you’re wearing a colorful print, pick a bold piece of jewelry, like a thick bangle or big earrings, in a color that matches one in the print. If your print is a neutral, like animal print or navy stripes, a shot of rich color or even a pop of neon looks incredibly cool.
7. Find pieces that nod to your personality.
One of my favorite things about wearing bold jewelry is that it makes me smile throughout the day. This is especially true when I’m wearing something that reflects my interests and things I love besides fashion.
For example, I have jewelry that states my horoscope sign, is shaped like my favorite animals, or even sports lightning-bolt motifs, referencing my Harry Potter obsession.
It doesn’t even matter if anyone else notices it or gets the reference – rocking these little gems make YOU feel great in what you’re wearing, and make your style truly YOURS.
8. Make a charm bracelet or necklace.
On the personalization note, if you want something 100% unique, why not assemble it yourself? Many craft stores and even your favorite fashion brands, like Juicy Couture, sell charms that can be strung onto necklaces or hooked on to bracelets. Collect them from various places or find matching charms that spell out a meaningful word or your initials!
9. Find some great pendant necklaces.
To me, a long necklace is one of the cornerstones of a fashionable casual wardrobe, up there with ballet flats and a white tee. Why? I think they streamline a look, drawing the eye vertically along all of your awesome outfit.
They also look effortless, like “I just threw this on” (which you did, because you don’t need to worry about pesky clasps!). I love them as a finishing touch to every classic outfit – from sundresses to a blazer and jeans.
Look for ones with a cute pendant charm in a fun color or in a versatile metal, like gold or silver.
10. Try a fun watch.
If you’re a practical or sporty type who’s worried that big bracelets and rings will get in your way, use fun-but-functional watches as your arm candy.
Watches, as silly as it sounds for such a practical piece, are becoming a trend. That means that you can find colorful and bold ones for low prices basically anywhere you’d go to buy other kinds of fashion jewelry. Get a few and match them to your outfit like you would any other bracelet!
11. Don’t be afraid of sparkle.
You know those gorgeous, super-sparkly necklaces, rhinestone rings and statement earrings you love? They aren’t just for formal occasions. They look amazing contrasted with plaid flannel or ripped denim.
When it comes to jewelry, as well as clothes, I hate labeling things as only appropriate for formal or casual events. We live in an age where sequins, mini dresses, and stilettos are seen during the day as often as at night. IMHO, the same should go for jewelry. I wear major jewelry all the time – whatever goes with my outfit, no matter how glitzy. It’s so much fun, so I say go for it!
12. Find quality pieces.
I completely understand the argument that since most fashion and costume jewelry is made very cheaply, it’s better to stick to a few more expensive, polished pieces. However, bold gems, bright colors and other fun elements of costume jewelry aren’t generally available in really long-lasting materials… unless you want to spend an arm and a leg.
13. Get a cute keyring.
If you’re tempted by the bold, quirky earrings and necklaces from brands like Betsey Johnson and Juicy, but feel like you can’t see yourself wearing them very often, try a keyring! Basically no one will see it but you, so there’s no reason to be afraid of color and sparkle. It’ll bring a smile to your face every time you open up your door.
14. Mix up the earrings in your additional piercings.
Do you have more than one piercing in each ear? Then you have even more opportunities to play with jewelry – hurrah!
While I do usually keep my extra stud constant, every once in a while I switch it out for one that matches a particular outfit. Especially for girls like me who usually opt for big earrings, this is the chance to rock all kinds of cute, delicate studs. You could even try a dangly drop earring in there if you’re feeling extra bold.
Industry News
Modern Love: The Invention of the Diamond Engagement Ring
“Diamonds are intrinsically worthless, except for the deep psychological need they fill.”
-De Beers Chairman Nicky Oppenheimer
It’s Valentine’s Day – and everyone, single or paired, is thinking about love. And what’s more inextricably linked with love than money? No — seriously. Take a minute to think about that…
What’s more synonymous with love than an engagement ring? What’s more synonymous with romance and diamonds? Have you ever wondered how that happened? I did. It turns out diamond engagement rings are not a timeless tradition as we’ve been led to believe. They were a marketing tool invented by an advertising agency in the early 50s to sell the surplus of small, colorless (i.e. worthless) diamonds that De Beers had hoarded and then found it couldn’t unload.
This isn’t a hate on romance, or jewelry. I love both. This is just the story of a story. In fact, it’s the story of two stories. One is the story of the very first diamond engagement ring, given to the Princess Mary of Burgundy by Archduke Maximilian when he proposed in 1477 AD.
The second story occurs half a millennia later, when De Beers, having consolidated 99% of the diamonds on earth, convinced the entire, previously indifferent world that everybody wanted a diamond, and always had. This is the story of how De Beers pulled off one of the greatest con jobs in history, and built a multi-billion dollar empire as a result.
Will You Merger Me?
In 1477 AD, 18-year-old Archduke (and later Holy Roman Emperor) Maximilian proposed to his great love, Mary of Burgundy, with the first ever faceted diamond engagement ring. Thus the two lovers began the swoon-worthy tradition of the diamond engagement ring; a tradition that has persisted, in an unbroken procession of promises, sparkles, and kisses for the last 534 years. Sigh…
Well, that’s De Beers version, anyway.
The Archduke did in fact propose, (through emissaries and ambassadors) to Mary of Burgundy in 1477—even though he’d never met her, and probably couldn’t have picked her out in a line-up. He did present a faceted diamond engagement ring…to her father, Charles the Bold. That part of the story is true. It wasn’t the kind of Tiffany’s, diamond solitaire you might be picturing. The diamonds were tiny, and set into the shape of an ‘M.’
Supposedly it was an ‘M’ for Mary—although it could just as easily, and even more aptly, been an ‘M’ for monarchy or am ‘M’ for money. It really should have been ‘M’ for merger. The marriage was actually an elaborate, multi-national land deal, as royal marriages often are. The diamond ring was a well thought-out and heavily loaded symbolic gesture of the most public kind.
The diamond engagement ring, as we all know it, was an invention of De Beers and a New York advertisement agency, N.W. Ayers. It was, first and foremost, a product. But it was a new kind of product. It was a way to emotionally compel people to buy diamonds, by reinventing the idea of diamonds as necessities, rather than temptations or frivolities. It was also a way to unload those diamonds on the biggest new market in the world. Even if it was also the market least interested in having them. Finally- it was a way dress up and present the smallest, least desirable stones, as though they were something special and important.
So how did they do it? First they invented, or at least sensually massaged, an origin story; they settled on the exchange of the “first diamond engagement ring” between Maximillian and Mary. They mined history for a precedent, and made it the center of an epic spin campaign. The story of “the first diamond engagement ring” set just the right romantic tone, and just the right epic historic context.
Then they did something really creative: They hired Madison Avenue ad firm, N.W. Ayer, to sell the idea of diamond engagement rings to an unwitting public, particularly the under-18 crowd.
De Beers already had the scarcity angle covered by manipulating the supply, to such a degree that diamonds were already considered rare and thus very valuable. All that was left was to manipulate the customer.
In 1948, N.W. Ayer created the iconic campaign: “A Diamond is Forever.” They engaged in cutting-edge techniques, like product research and social psychology. They employed, if not invented, product placement way ahead of its time; they gifted movie stars with diamond rings, then paid paying multiple media outlets to show them wearing the rocks.
De Beers didn’t invent the diamond engagement ring. They did one better. They invented the myth of the diamond engagement ring.
Everything You Never Wanted To Know About Diamonds
What is a diamond, technically speaking?
In scientific terms, a diamond is an allotrope of the element carbon, meaning that it is one of many forms a substance might take. Other allotropes of carbon include coal, soot, and graphite, more commonly called pencil lead.
Carbon is a component of almost everything. It’s certainly a component of you. 99% of the human body is made up of only three elements, and one of them is Carbon. It’s also major component of the atmosphere, the oceans, and every organic (i.e. carbon-based) life form on the planet. To say carbon is common would be an understatement. It’s the fourth most abundant element in the universe.
All the diamonds on earth and underground were formed about 320 miles below the earth’s surface, 1 to 3 billion years ago, under intense heat and pressure. There is no doubt an almost inconceivable amount of diamonds are still down there. The diamonds that we mine or find near the surface were carried up to the earth’s crust by kimberlite pipes, the “roots” of certain small, and super powerful volcanoes that reach three times deeper into Earth’s mantle than larger volcanoes like Mount St. Helen’s. Millions of years ago, when those volcanoes erupted, diamonds were carried upward in the magma, and deposited among the other rocks.
Carbon actually comes from the Latin word Carbo, meaning Coal. Diamonds are in fact, just a really, really compressed form of coal.
Fancy, huh?
At standard temperature and pressure, carbon will take the form of graphite. In graphite, each atom is linked to 3 other carbon atoms, all of them linked together, in a 2-D sheet of fused hexagonal rings. Confused? Imagine a chain-link fence lying on the ground; each place where the chain crosses is an atomic bond. If you layer one chain-link fence on top of another, on top of another, in loose sheets, that’s graphite.
So what makes some generic carbon a diamond and not a sheet of graphite? Organization. Under very, very high pressures and temperatures carbon atoms will form a more well-organized version of the same thing. Each of those layers of chain-link fence is linked to each other vertically as well, at every cross point. Like stacked cubes, stuck together at each joint, a diamond’s lattice is symmetrical in every direction. This pattern gives the mineral all of its properties, most famously its ability to scatter light waves like a prism. When light enters a diamond, the incredible density of electrons forming that cubic crystal lattice scatters the light waves, breaking them apart (into colors) and causing them to bounce around.
This isn’t just pretty, it’s perfect, at least from a molecular standpoint.
That does not, however, make them rare. In 1998, there were approximately twice as many diamonds in circulation as there had been fifteen years before that. And there have been massive new finds since then. GIA estimates an accumulated total of 4.5 billion carats of diamonds have been mined just since the beginning of the South African diamond rush. That’s enough diamonds to provide every single one of the approximately 7 billion people on the planet with a standard one half carat diamond ring—with a billion carats left over.
Nor do diamonds last forever, despite what their many advertisers would have us believe. The word diamond comes from the word adamantine, meaning indestructible. And while it’s true that nothing can cut a diamond except another diamond, that doesn’t mean nothing can destroy them. In fact for an item which bases its reputation on its strength and timelessness, diamonds are aren’t really that durable. Hard, yes: the hardest substance in the mineral family, and more than 50 times harder than the next hardest, sapphires. But hard isn’t the same as strong.
You can do all kinds of terrible things to them. You can scratch them up in your jewelry box as long as you have other diamonds, you can actually incinerate them at 1400°- no joke, they just vanish—not a trace is left behind. Or, if you’re like my curious six-year-old father, having heard that diamonds are the hardest substance on the earth, you can take your mother’s one and only diamond ring and smash it to bits with a hammer. (It was a trauma from which she apparently never fully recovered).
Diamonds are not only brittle, but quite thermodynamically unstable. Right now, as you read this, every diamond you’ve ever seen is slowly converting back to graphite. The process is just so incredibly slow at room temperature that human beings will never live to see it.
So— who wants coal in their stocking this year!? (Because that’s all diamonds are made of.) The answer, apparently, is everyone- as long as they don’t know the real substance of what they’re getting. Generally, people don’t. And there’s a good reason for that: No one in the last 80 years has sold a diamond – they’ve sold an idea.
And God only knows what ideas are made out of…
Can’t Buy Me Love
Oh wait—yes, you can. At least, according to De Beers you can. They’ve spent the last half a century convincing the world that a diamond is synonymous with love. Not everyone wants a diamond, but everybody wants love. The best thing about love, as a seller’s commodity, is that it’s free—so the profit margin is spectacular!
There’s a reason that linking diamonds with the idea of love was so completely successful. Love and money share the same real estate in your brain. Researchers in a relatively new field called neuroeconomics are studying just that. They are looking, not just behaviorally or chemically, but actually structurally, at the way your brain values things. And a team at Duke University finally found the sweet spot. It’s called the ventromedial prefrontal cortex (vmPFC), it’s a few centimeters in, right between your eyes.
So what happens in this special V-spot?
You value things. You also love things. They’ve actually discovered that “the processes that determine emotion and value both take place in the ventromedial prefrontal cortex. “ That means the process by which you feel an emotional attachment, and the process by which you determine a thing’s worth, are all bundled up in the same little cluster of neurons.
Clearly, wires get crossed.
Everyone’s always known that making someone feel good is an effective way to make them part with cash, whether that’s a charming salesman, or an ad with a smiling baby- But that’s just anecdotal. Now, with the identification of the vmPFC’s action, we know why, and where, and how. According to Dr Scott Huettell, of the Center for Interdisciplinary Decision Science at Duke University, it has been well established that judging value and emotion happen independently in the cortex, but until this breakthrough, no one had found the physical link between the two.
Well, De Beers must have had an inkling…
Diamonds aren’t forever. Diamond engagement rings have only been a “necessary luxury” for about eighty years. The truth is: diamonds are neither rare nor intrinsically valuable. What value diamonds do possess is largely created in the minds of the consumer. We take the tradition of a diamond engagement ring for granted, as if it were as old as marriage itself. It is not. In fact, it’s only about as old as the microwave oven.
Through a clever combination of pioneering market research, advertising, and product placement, De Beers has bedazzled us so thoroughly that we all believe this myth is not only true, but always has been. In fact, the myth is so compelling that it justified the sale of a product De Beers couldn’t unload, to a population who didn’t want it.
Industry News
Jewelry: The Best Ways to Show Off Bling
Whether fancy or costume, nothing can add oomph to your wardrobe like jewelry.
There is nothing that brings a smile to our face like a pretty ring, a jangly necklace, or some sparkly earrings. Big or small, real or fake, understated or over-the-top, jewelry lifts the spirits. It also lifts a look. Colorful beads or chandelier earrings could be just the thing to make an ordinary outfit outstanding. Read on for tips on how to best use jewelry to your fashion advantage.
Show Your Style Spirit
While jewelry is a very personal thing – gifts from your significant other, family heirlooms, purchases to mark milestones – it can also be a reflection of your style spirit. Some people can’t go out of the house without loading up necklaces, while for others simple studs will do. Some women prefer an armful of bangles, and some load up on brooches. No matter your preference, bits of baubles are all about adding joy to your look – so don’t stress, have fun with it.
Keep It Chic and Cheap
Keep it chic. In some instances, loading up on the sparklies is an exciting way to accent. But know when to stop. An armful of bangles, for example, means you should think minimal with your necklaces and earrings.
Tone it down when your clothes have a lot going on. A ruffle-front blouse can look sweet with a thin chain in the mix, but not with a big, ornate number.
You don’t have to spend a lot on your baubles. Costume jewelry adds pizzazz. Beware of anything too cheap, and avoid pieces that are just poor imitations of the real deal.
Bring Life to Outfits with Necklaces
There are so many directions you can go when it comes to necklaces, from subtle (a simple gold chain or a strand of pearls) to bold (a wide bib or colorful beads) and lots of places in between.
Five Necklace-Wearing Guidelines
Layer up! A mix of necklaces in varied shapes and lengths can look festive. Stop at a few strands. You don’t want to look weighed down.
A wide choker or bib demands attention and should be your sole statement maker. Forgo other jewelry when wearing such a fetching item.
An open neckline on your top highlights your glitzy accent. The same goes for a solid-color shirt.
A draping necklace is lovely with a long frock. Choose a shorter strand with higher hemlines.
Consider the vibe you are going for. Add colorful beads for a boho feel, silver chains for a touch of punk, or pearls for a prim and proper air.
Face-Framing with Earrings
Whether you prefer simple studs every day or dangly drops, earrings have a big impact on your outfit. Yes, they are relatively small, but they are in the direct line of vision of anyone you talk to, so they should be well considered.
Earrings 3 Ways
Small studs are perfect if you like a tad of glitz and don’t change them every day. Diamonds are the ultimate and go with everything, but pearls or gold or silver studs are just as versatile.
Chandelier earrings draw attention. Keep your accoutrements limited to these stunners; pass on a necklace, brooch, or bangles.
Dainty drop earrings are the middle ground between petite studs and major danglies. They also offer a way to work color into your look.
Up the Glam Factor with Rings
You don’t have to have a major rock to indulge in an eye-catching ring. From classic gold bands to exotic stones, there are styles to suit all tastes and budgets. Use rings to make an even bigger statement every time you talk with your hands.
Four Ways to Wear Rings
A gob-stopper-size ring is the ideal partner for your cocktail frock. Try one for day, too, when you’re wearing basics.
Stack your rings (like these from Ipppolita) for a funky edge. To properly layer, choose ones that have flat edges or single stones and can be twisted to fit on top of each other.
Don’t load up every finger. One adorned digit per hand looks best (especially with cocktail pieces), but max out at two each if you like to wear multiples.
When wearing an attention-getting ring, keep in mind people will look – which means your nails should be properly groomed.
Accent Your Arms
Bracelets can be exotic, simple, or just exciting. They’re all about adding extra oomph. Whether you stack them, opt for one wide cuff, or pick one filled with trinkets, they give your style personality.
How to Make Bracelets Stand Out
Try loading up on an armful. Stacked bangles – especially gold pieces of varying sizes (like this chain bracelet from Ann Taylor Loft) – put a worldly spin on your style. Add a watch into the mix, but don’t go so far that you are jangling everywhere you go.
Mixing material can look rich when wearing multiple bracelets, but keep it limited to one or two types.
Lots of bracelets calls for bare wrists. Wear short sleeves or roll up long ones to display your bijoux.
One wide cuff makes an impression. So, leave the rest of your look toned down. Cuffs can easily slide over a long-sleeved knit. It’s a chic way to wear them.
Brooches: Old-Fashioned Sparkles
You may think brooches are an outdated, fuddy-duddy take on jewelry, but a glamorous pin can enrich and enliven the most basic of clothes – and there are even edgy options like this tarantula brooch from Giorgio Armani.
Industry News
COMPREHENSIVE GLOSSARY OF JEWELRY-RELATED TERMS
Art Deco – A style characterized by angular geometric shapes, zigzags, bold colors, molded or faceted Czech glass beads, plastics (like celluloid or Bakelite) and chrome, unlike the curves of the previous era. Also known as the geometric style that succeeded Edwardian jewelry beginning in the 1910s through the mid-1920’s. Colored stones were utilized more, and the opaque stones such as jade, onyx and coral were set in geometric shapes. Sleek animals such as Borzoi and Greyhound dogs were featured in some designs. It started out with relatively delicate designs, and progressed to a more bold and blocky style also called Art Moderne.
Art Nouveau – A style also known as “Victorian” or “Edwardian” consisting of fluid lines, floral and nature themes and natural colors. Also known for its flowing style with sinuous curves and naturalistic motifs that was popular from about 1895 to 1905. A common motif was a women’s head with flowing hair.
Arts and Crafts – A design movement that began in the late 1800s as a rebellion against the mass-produced, machine made designs of questionable aesthetic value common in the late Victorian era. The designers felt that their work should look handmade, and therefore they often left hammer marks on the piece. Although pieces were made of gold, silver was more commonly used to emphasize the craftsmanship of the piece rather than the intrinsic value of the components. Stones were commonly less expensive. Cabochon stones such as moonstone, mother or pearl, agate, amber, and enamel work was also used.
Bronze – A brownish alloy of copper and tin that is not used much in costume jewelry because it is very dense and therefore heavy.
Crystal – A glass stone or bead, usually with high lead content.
Diamond – Diamonds, a form of crystalline carbon, are prized because they are exceptionally hard and durable, have high refractivity and brilliance, and because really fine diamonds are rare. Today diamonds are valued based on the “4 C’s” of color, cut, clarity and carat size. Many diamond imitations have appeared over the years, with the most common today being the ubiquitous cubic zirconia which appears similar to a diamond to the uninitiated, but can be readily distinguished by a diamond tester which measures thermal inertia. Trained individuals, despite claims of cubic zirconia manufacturers, also have little trouble distinguishing a genuine diamond when it is examined under at least 10 power magnification.
Emerald – A gemstone of the beryl family, fine emeralds are among the most valuable gemstones. Unlike most gemstones, flaws (called inclusions by gemologists )are quite common in emeralds, so they lower the value much less than with other precious stones such a diamonds. The most highly prized emeralds are mined in Columbia. A valuable emerald will be a bright, vividly colored green. Those with a slight blue cast to the bright green are actually the most valuable color.
Many emeralds seen in jewelry are of relatively low quality. They are often dyed or oiled to improve the color and minimize flaws. If an emerald appears to be very fine, it may actually be a synthetic. There are several types of synthetic emeralds on the market, and some of them are challenging to identify, even for a trained gemologist.
Freshwater Pearl – A pearl produced by a mollusk that inhabits freshwater, usually these pearls are shaped like an uneven grain of rice. There is also a variety called Tennessee fresh water pearls that taper like a long tooth, as in the illustrated 1940’s brooch.
Gold – Since ancient times, gold has been prized for its beauty, and purity since it does not oxidize or tarnish like most other metals. It has also been used as a store of value to build wealth and shield against hard times. Gold used in jewelry is almost always alloyed with other metals since gold in its pure form is very soft and malleable, and would not wear well by itself. Much gold jewelry from the 19th century and before is not marked. Tests must be done to determine if it is solid gold and to determine purity.
The familiar Karat marking system used in the United States did not become popular until around 1890 or so. (Note that Karat with a “K” refers to gold purity, while Carat with a “C” refers to the weight of a gemstone, e.g. a one carat diamond set in a 14 karat gold ring.) The karat number refers to the parts of pure gold per 24 in the alloy. So a 14K alloy is 14/24 parts pure gold, or about 58% gold.
Other countries used a marking system well before the United States. For example, Britain has had a system of hallmarking in place for hundreds of years.
It is also common in many European and other countries to mark gold with a three digit number indicating the parts per thousand of gold. Thus gold jewelry is often marked “750” for 750/1000 gold. (Equivalent to US 18K).
In addition to many purities, alloyed gold also comes in many colors. Variations in the metals alloyed with the gold account for the ability to produce white, pink and even green gold, in addition to the familiar yellow gold. Pink gold was popular in late Victorian times, and again in the 1940s. White gold was very popular from 1900 through the 30’s.
Hair Jewelry – In the mid-19th century lockets of hair of loved ones were often preserved under glass in brooches. The hair was sometimes intricately curled or woven, and these pieces are often inscribed on the back to identify the donors. Later in the century, hair was woven into watch chains, bracelets, even earrings and given as tokens of affection. All forms of hair jewelry are very collectible today.
Jewelry – Ornaments worn by people on the body [Fr]; trinket; fine jewelry; costume jewelry, junk jewelry; gem, gemstone, precious stone. Forms of jewelry: necklace, bracelet, anklet; earring; locket, pendant, charm bracelet; ring, pinky ring; carcanet, chain, chatelaine; broach, pin, lapel pin, torque.
Pearl – A natural gemstone formed when a oyster is irritated by a substance that gets into its shell. If the irritation is a naturally occurring grain of sand, it is an Oriental pearl. If it is produced by purposefully inserting a mother-of-pearl bead, a cultured pearl is formed. A pearl that forms attached to the shell is a blister pearl, while a pearl that forms a half dome is a mabe (pronounced mah-bay) pearl. Pearls that are irregularly shaped rather than round are referred to as baroque.
Retro – A recent designation for the period in the forties when when large scale, stylized geometric forms were the rage. Pink gold, set with colored stones, sometimes in floral forms was common.
Tiffany Setting – The high pronged setting most common today for large stones such as a diamond solitaire, this setting was introduced by Tiffany & Co. in 1886.
Industry News
The Best Ways to Clean Your Jewelry, From Cheap Stuff to the Real Deal
Last year, a friend of mine got engaged to her longtime boyfriend and excitedly posted a photo of her vintage opal engagement ring online. It was beautiful, but I was worried: Opals are the silk blouse of the jewelry world—gorgeous, feminine, and incredibly temperamental. They require extraordinarily gentle handling to keep them looking their best, so I emailed my friend to tell her so (I offered her my best wishes too, I’m not that myopic!).
For all that I know about the care and cleaning of jewelry, from opals to diamonds and vintage to costume pieces, I’ve got nothing on jewelry writer and historian Monica McLaughlin, who writes the popular Estate Jewelry series for The Hairpin. I talked to Monica about what she uses to clean her baubles, the difference between caring for hard and soft gemstones, and why she hates the fact that I clean my diamond wedding ring with denture tablets.
The Basics of Jewelry Cleaning
Monica advises that, when it comes to cleaning jewelry, less is more: “My standbys are soft, clean toothbrushes and makeup brushes, a soft cloth (actually an old white T-shirt!), and water. I tread very lightly and mess with each piece as little as possible. Only if something starts to look a little dull will I give it a light wash with a tiny bit of non-detergent soap and a lot of water.”
Silver jewelry for can be cleaned with either silver polish or a silver polishing cloth, like Goddard’s. Monica, who is a collector not only of jewelry but also of antique silver serving pieces, also recommends Simichrome Polish, which an antique dealer she worked for turned her onto: “Just a tiny little dab is all it takes to get a gorgeous mirror finish on your piece!”
Gold jewelry that’s been tarnished can also be cleaned with a jewelry cloth, like Connoisseurs Gold Polishing Cloth, but be sure that the one you’re using is safe for gold—and never, ever use silver polish on gold jewelry.
As for storage, keeping delicate items in their original boxes will help protect against damage caused by contact with other pieces. If your collection includes delicate necklaces in particular, investing in a stand they can hang from will keep them from becoming tangled.
The Problem with Denture Tablets
Dissolving a denture tablet in warm water is my go-to method for cleaning my wedding bands. It makes short work of returning dulled rings to sparkler status on the cheap (a box of 90 tablets costs around $6), but I wanted to get Monica’s official take on the practice: “I’m against the denture tablet method, sorry! The Gemological Institute of America discourages it because the chemicals in the cleanser can be harmful to the metal setting of the ring. They can weaken or erode the alloys that make up the setting, so while the diamond itself is fine, the band and/or prongs can be weakened. I live in fear of looking down at a ring and seeing a missing stone, so I would always err on the side of caution and stay away from this technique.”
Instead, Monica recommends mixing a solution of 1 cup water with 1/4 cup ammonia or using a glass cleaner like Windex diluted with water as an overnight soaking agent. “Give the ring a light scrub with a soft brush the next day, pat it dry, and it should be good to go,” she adds. That solution is safe for cleaning both gemstones and their metal settings, as well as plain gold and silver pieces.
Understanding Hard Gems v. Soft Stones
It’s important to know what stones are hard versus soft before cleaning your bling, since the softer ones need gentler handling. As Monica explains, “Diamonds, rubies, and sapphires are the hardest gemstones, so they can handle the ammonia and water treatment. If they’re really gross, you can let them soak overnight; if not, you can just give them a quick dip-and-brush.”
For soft gemstones like pearls, opals, coral, and turquoise, Monica advises that you use water and a very small amount of mild, non-detergent soap like Kirk’s Castile paired with a clean, unused makeup brush to lightly scrub the piece.
Monica also reminded me of something I hadn’t thought of since my boarding school days: “The rule of thumb with pearls is ‘last thing on, first thing off.’ Pearls are highly absorbent and will suck up anything you put on yourself—lotion, hairspray, perfume, whatever. Shield them by putting them on after you’re through with your beauty routine, and then take them off as soon as you get home. To keep pearls in good shape, give them a quick swipe with a soft, damp cloth after you wear them, and get them re-strung every three years, or every year, if you wear them multiple times a week. Some dealers recommend washing pearls in cool water, but that soaks the string, which may weaken it and shorten its lifespan.”
The delicate handling of softer gems extends to storage practices, too. Pearls and opals in particular need air circulation and a certain amount of exposure to humidity to ensure they don’t crack, so they should never be stored in an excessively dry environment. Your soft gems should also be stored separately from other pieces to prevent the scratching and damage that can occur through contact with other things in your jewelry box.
The Particulars of Antique and Costume Jewelry
If you, like Monica, are an avid collector of antique pieces or if you’ve inherited older jewelry from a family member, you lucky thing you, take the time to find a jeweler in your area who has experience working with old stuff! Ultrasonic cleaners are to be avoided at all costs—they’re safe for most contemporary jewelry, but can cause damage to delicate antique pieces.
When it comes to costume jewelry, you can follow the same instructions for cleaning the real deal, but need to avoid soaking those pieces for long periods of time, as prolonged exposure to water and cleaning agents can break down the glue used to affix fake gemstones to settings. Another great option for costume pieces is the use of jewelry cloths, which clean without water.